3. Banner Ads

By entering your Clickbank Nickname (and TID if applicable) and clicking Submit, your affiliate hoplink will automatically be place in the code. Then copy & paste the code of the banner ad you wish to use into your webpage.

Cat Training Specific Banner Ad Hoplinks.

Cat Training Banner <a href="http://www.kingdomofpets.com/completecattraining/?aff=changeid&type=nohop"> <img src="http://www.kingdomofpets.com/completecattraining/images/banner.gif" width="350" height="75"></a>

5. Keywords

A great place to start your advertising campaign is Google Adwords and other pay-per-click search engines. If you are new to PPC search engines or would just like a great lesson in making Google ads that sell like Crazy, try reading this fabulous E-Book: GOOGLECASH. It gives you a great introduction to understanding the workings of Google.

Plus, you can use various cat training tips, breeds and misspelling! If you don't already have it, a great tool for finding hundreds of successful keywords in seconds is ADWORD ANALYZER.

6. Articles and Newsletters

Use the following articles and newsletters to provide people with information about Complete Cat Training and what they will stand to gain from purchasing it.

NOTE: Article and newsletter should be reworded to ensure they are not seen as duplicate content. Articles and newsletters can only be used to promote Kingdom of Pets' products.

*Remember to replace changeid with your Clickbank Nickname in the hoplink at the bottom of each article

Article 1 - Training Your Cat
Artilce 2 - Cat Training: Play Aggression
Article 3 - Urine marking in Cats

Article 1

- Training Your Cat - When most people think about animal obedience work, cats aren’t usually the first candidates to spring to mind. We tend to associate cats with words like aloof, independent, and laid back – they seem to focus on doing what they want, pretty much as and when they feel like it. You might be excused for thinking that this isn’t really ideal training material! However – there’s an ever-increasing number of people who are deriving a great deal of pleasure from training their cats in basic and advanced obedience work and tricks (from sit, stay, come to jumping through hoops, twirling, and high-fiving) - and what’s more, they’re convinced that their cats enjoy it, too! The benefits of training your cat Just because cats typically lead solitary, individual lives doesn’t mean that they necessarily want to do so. In fact, many cats are incredibl affectionate and loving by nature – they just need you to demonstrate your leadership and initiate the rapport-building process. Cats are often underestimated when it comes to the training process, simply because the average owner has very little need to attempt any sort of training at all. Unlike with dogs (whose ability to learn is very well documented) there’s no need to train cats in the basics of pet protocol like house training and bathing. Consequently, relatively few people are aware of their cat’s abilities in this area. Training your cat is a fantastic way to enrich your cat’s life: - It builds a strong rapport between you and your cat - Because training underlines your authority (your cat has to do what you want to get what he wants), it helps to curb dominant behavior - It keeps your cat’s mind active and stimulated - It’s great interactive play, and teaches good social skills - Anxious and highly-strung cats are reassured and soothed by the repetition and routine of training So how do I train my cat? There are two popular methods of training a cat: target training and clicker training. A brief rundown of each: - Target training is where you attract your cat’s attention and then obtain desired behaviors through the use of a designated tool. For example, during the ‘beg’ command, a particular target training tool called a training wand is used to attract the cat’s attention upwards, and to encourage the cat to rise up on his haunches and ‘beg’. - Clicker training is a form of operant conditioning (which is where the animal is taught to form a conscious association between a specific behavior and a result.) A small mechanical noise-maker (the ‘clicker’) is used by the trainer to create a short, distinct noise. The clicker is clicked at the precise moment that the cat performs a desired behavior – for example, during ‘sit’, the clicker is clicked at the very instant that the cat’s bottom touches the ground. Directly after the click, the cat is fed a small and tasty treat. With repetition, the cat grows to associate the click with the food, and recognizes his own ability to earn treats by performing the desired action on command. The clicker is a particularly valued training tool because it allows the trainer to pinpoint the exact behavior that’s being rewarded: without the clicker, it’s too easy for the cat to form associations between the treat and a completely unrelated behavior (since it’s impossible to feed the cat a treat at the precise moment that he’s performing a trick.) Practical tips for training your cat - Remember to be patient. Your cat is an individual, with his own abilities and preferences. He will pick up some tricks quickly, but may struggle with others. Make allowances for his personality, and don’t lose your temper if it doesn’t go exactly according to schedule. - If you’re free-feeding your cat (leaving food out at all times for him to eat as and when he feels like it), stop doing this. Enforcing a feeding schedule has two main benefits: it increases the reward-value of food treats as training devices, and also introduces a semblance of routine into your cat’s life (which, believe it or not, most cats actually prefer.) - Train smart. If you’re using food treats (which is highly recommended to achieve the desired results) then schedule training sessions for just before mealtimes: your cat’s natural desire for food at his regular mealtime will sharpen his focus and increase his desire to obey you (so he can get a treat.) - Take baby steps. When training your cat, it’s best to build up a solid foundation of the basics before attempting to expand his repertoire. - Cats have pretty short attention spans, and low boredom thresholds. Keep lessons short and interesting – and always try to end on a positive note. An example of successful cat training in action Training your cat to ‘sit’ on command ‘Sit’ is a great basic command for your cat to know, because it serves as the foundation for a number of other, more advanced tricks and commands (for example, ‘stay’, ‘beg’, and ‘high five’.) - Make your training wand extra-effective by smearing the tip in a little tuna oil, and use it to attract your cat’s attention (wave it around, trail it past his face, etc.) - Once he’s come over to you, place the wand just over his head, so that it’s slightly behind the crown of his head. - He will tilt his head back to keep his eyes on it. When he does this, he will naturally sit down (since otherwise, his neck can’t bend back far enough to allow him to keep watching the training wand.) - As he sits down, say the word ‘Sit’, which will be the verbal cue for this command (your cat will grow to associate the command with the act of sitting, and eventually will learn to sit down whenever you ask him to.) - As soon as his bottom touches the ground, click the clicker. It’s important that you time this precisely. - Directly after clicking, give him a small food treat. Make sure it’s cut up very small – if it takes him more than two seconds to eat it, he’ll forget why you gave it to him. - Repeat this process a few more times, and over the next few weeks, keep doing so until he’s comfortable with what’s expected of him. When he’s able to sit down on command, you can phase the clicker out – but still give treats sporadically (interestingly, if you treat every single time that he performs a command, he’s actually less likely to reliably obey that command. Keeping him on his toes seems to increase the likelihood of obedience!) Further training For step-by-step advice on how to train your cat in a huge variety of other obedience commands and tricks (from ‘stay’ to ‘play dead’ to ‘fetch’), check out the Complete Cat Training book – it’s full of training how-to’s, as well as a huge amount of detailed information on solving problem behaviors, cat psychology, and how to develop a more rewarding relationship with your cat. To visit the Complete Cat Training website, click the link below: http://www.kingdomofpets.com/completecattraining/

Article 2

- Cat Training: Play Aggression - Play aggression Aggression is an inherent aspect of your cat’s predatory nature: behaviors like stalking, chasing, leaping, pouncing, swatting, and biting are all common displays, and are always a major component of any play session. Usually, this doesn’t constitute a problem: it’s just how cats play, and catering to your cat’s predatory whims can be pretty fun! But when your cat becomes play aggressive, things can get very uncomfortable, very quickly: faced with a cat that doesn’t understand that such play is painful and even dangerous for her owner, playtimes with your cat can become a trial rather than a pleasure. This problem is the number-one most common form of aggression that cats display towards humans. It happens when a bored, underexercised, and lonely cat becomes overstimulated during play – and typical play-time mock aggression becomes the real deal. How do cats normally play? Cats play in two ways: social (or interactive) play, which is directed towards other cats and humans; and solitary play, which is directed towards objects like balled up paper, mobile cat toys, and paper bags. Play aggression is often present in either of these two modes of play, but it only becomes an issue when people are involved. What causes play aggression? Play aggression happens when your cat has an excess of unused energy – usually from a lack of exercise and owner interaction – and, as a result, becomes too rambunctious and vigorous during a play session. Because all cat play is based around the predatory feline nature, an overstimulated cat vents this excess through an intensification of her normal predatory play: so, instead of swatting at you with claws sheathed, she extends them; instead of mouthing your hand, she gives it a sharp bite. Unfortunately, the problem is usually self-replicating. The cat is play-aggressive because she’s not getting enough stimulating, interactive play time; but because she demonstrates this behavior whenever she gets played with, her owner plays with her less … which results in more play aggression … which results in even less play … and so on. How can I tell when my cat’s about to become aggressive? You can often tell when the play’s getting a bit out of control by paying attention to your cat’s body language and expression. Normal, non-aggressive feline play behavior includes the ‘play face’, with a half-open mouth and heavily lidded eyes; the sideways hop (often with arched back); and a lightly switching tail (it’s going from side to side, but slowly and gently.) When your cat’s getting too revved-up, her body language will alter dramatically. Her ears will go back, her tail will start lashing violently from side to side, and her pupils will enlarge. Her movements will also become significantly more vigorous and energetic: there’ll be increased speed and force to her playing. What should I do when I sense things are getting out of control? If you think your cat’s getting overexcited, the best thing you can do is to stand up and walk away – before she actually starts to display aggression! You can resume play as soon as she’s calmed down a bit; the idea is to intervene before she has the chance to vent her energy on you. If it’s too late for this and she’s already started to bite or scratch at you, don’t reward her with attention – not even negative attention. Simply stand up and walk away. Leave the room, if necessary. At this point, she will most likely try to initiate play with you again. When she does, don’t respond – play initiation is dominant behavior, and if you accede to her demands, it’ll teach her that bothering you for attention results in her getting her own way. If she’s particularly persistent, or the aggresion is becoming hard to deal with, you can isolate her in a room by herself until she’s calm (which can take anywhere from five to twenty minutes.) Main do’s and don’ts for play aggression - Remember, your cat isn’t really trying to ‘attack’ you – her intentions are purely playful. She just has to learn that aggressive behavior isn’t going to result in a rewarding play session for her. In order for her to learn this, you need to be consistent with your reactions: so don’t reward her with attention sometimes, and ignore her at other times. She’ll get confused, and won’t learn to curb her aggressive behavior. - Don’t ever use physical punishment to correct play aggression. There are two reasons for this: one, if you actually hurt your cat, this will result in increased aggression on her behalf; and two, even if it doesn’t hurt, it’s still going to scare her, which results in owner-avoidance and a general deterioration of your relationship. - Since play aggression is almost always due to boredom and an excess of energy, the best thing you can do is to provide lots of opportunities for stimulating interactive play with your cat. Try to make it aerobic exercise: get her running around, chasing things, climbing, pouncing, and so on. - Make sure the play is on your terms. Don’t allow your cat to initiate play – this is habit-forming, and teaches her that you can be manipulated. - If you find it difficult to make the time to play with your cat, scheduling in a couple of set ten-minute playtimes each day might help. Paying attention to your cat’s circadian rhythms (watching to see when she’s the most active) is a good idea as well: play with her when she’s wide-awake and raring to go. She’ll get more out of it. What toys should I use? Cats are predators. Their play is instinctively based around behaviors that will increase their ability to hunt. Because of this, cats prefer toys that resemble prey – that is, small, mobile objects that move. Try things like ping-pong balls, scrumpled-up paper, cardboard boxes, paper bags, dangling ropes affixed to the ceiling or doorways, scratching posts, and skeins of yarn for solitary play; and fake mice, cat dancers (like a mobile which you dangle and jerk around for your cat to play with), wands, and anything that rolls which you can toss for her for interactive play. If she likes to climb and explore, you can also try creating an obstacle course for her to enjoy: rig up some branches, pillars, shelves, perches, and climbing ramps etc for her to clamber around on. Most cats enjoy being up high anyway, so this should go down a treat. You can also try hiding some small, tasty treats in various places to encourage her to get climbing. For a really detailed look at how to deal with your cat’s behavior problems, take a look at Complete Cat Training. It’s a cutting-edge cat training manual that’s focused on training your cat and changing her behavior for the better. For professional tips on transforming your cat’s behavior problems (as well as teaching her some pretty neat tricks, from sit and stay to roll over, play dead, and fetch!) Complete Cat Training comes very highly recommended. You can visit the Complete Cat Training website by clicking on the link below: http://www.kingdomofpets.com/completecattraining/

Article 3

- Urine marking in Cats - What is urine marking? Urine marking – sometimes called spraying – is when your cat deposits small amounts of urine (usually on vertical surfaces) as a kind of message tag to announce his presence. Although this issue involves inappropriate urination inside the house, marking isn’t actually a housetraining problem: it’s a deliberate expression of territoriality, which is a completely different thing. Why do cats mark? There are a number of reasons why cats mark: - Territoriality: the cat is letting other cats know that the marked area is “his” territory - To communicate sexual availability - Out of stress or anxiety - A change of location: some cats will begin to mark when their owners move house - If a new animal or human is introduced to the house - Because of overcrowding (too many other cats in the house) - The cat is receiving less attention than normal - A significant change in lifestyle or routine (for example, the owner gets a full-time job; someone moves out of home; the house is renovated) Which cats are more likely to mark? All cats mark - and unfortunately, there’s no way of predicting in advance which cats are going to become sprayers! However, some cats are more likely to mark than others. From most likely to least likely, these are: - Unneutered (intact) male cats - Neutered male cats - Intact females - Spayed females If you have an intact male cat, urine marking is practically to be expected. The urine of a tomcat has that characteristically strong, catty odor, and is very recognizable (and offensive) to humans: neutering your male cat will remove this odor and will also reduce the likelihood of recurrent marking. Although neutering is strongly recommended in the treatment of feline marking, it’s not necessarily guaranteed to work: approximately 10% of neutered males and 5% of neutered females keep right on doing it. How can I get my cat to stop marking? Although there’s no hard-and-fast, guaranteed ‘cure’ for this undesirable behavior, there are a number of steps that you can take which are likely to either significantly reduce, or stop entirely, your cat’s marking. Listed below are some of the most effective options: - Take him for a checkup There are a huge number of reasons why your cat is choosing to urinate outside the litterbox: he may be marking, or there may be a medical cause for the behavior. Before you can decide on appropriate treatment, you need to rule out health-related causes for the inappropriate elimination. Take him to the vet for a urinalysis (a complete analysis of his urine) and an overall checkup, to make sure that there are no medical reasons for his behavior. - Neuter your cat Neuter your cat immediately. This is the single most effective thing you can do to stop your cat’s spraying, and if you hope to get any control at all over the issue, it's pretty much mandatory. Statistics show that a whopping 87% of all cats stop marking when they’re altered - of this number, 78% cease marking immediately, and 9% stop within three months. - Behavioral modification Behavior modification is a tried and true method of controlling your cat’s spraying, although it will require a considerable investment of time and effort on your behalf. You’ll need to supervise your cat closely, paying attention to where and when he marks. The use of behavioral-modification tools like water pistols and shake cans (a tin can with ten pennies or a handful of pebbles inside – when shaken, it makes a loud, scary noise) speeds the process up considerably: when you catch him marking, startle him out of continuing by either spraying him with the water pistol or shaking the can vigorously. ‘Redesignating’ the areas which he tends to mark in can also help: cats don’t like to spray in areas where they eat, sleep, and play. If he marks in particular places around the home (as opposed to indiscriminately), put his food bowls next to the spot, play with him there, and put his bed there. - Make things easy for your cat Treatment for marking is based around removing your cat’s motivation to mark in the first place. The most common reasons for marking is territoriality: he could be feeling threatened by the presence of strange cats around the house, or he could be experiencing some conflict with another cat(s) in the house. So, to control his marking behavior, you need to minimize his need to act in a defensive, territorial way. You can do this by minimizing his exposure to the strange cats, and by resolving any conflict in the home. For strange cats: Keep him inside the house, and restrict his access to windows: shut the doors to high-risk rooms, block out his view by installing shields across the sills (these are made of translucent plastic, and can be bought from home-improvement and DIY stores), and if you have a cat-flap, make sure it’s permanently closed (both to prevent your cat from going outside, and to prevent other cats from coming in.) For problems inside the home: If the problem’s based around a situation in the home (perhaps he’s feeling overcrowded, perhaps there are conflict issues with one or more other cats), you’ll need to pay attention to how your cats are interacting, and then separate the cats that have issues with each other. Keep them in separate rooms, with separate litter boxes and food bowls. This doesn’t have to be a permanent thing – once the spraying's stopped, give them at least another week of separation (just to be on the safe side) and then you can gradually reintroduce them by way of mutually-enjoyable events like mealtimes and playtimes.) - Use your common sense Make it really easy for your cat to urinate appropriately. Make sure that there are enough litter boxes in the house: there should be at least one more than the total number of cats. If you have a multi-storey house, make sure there’s at least one box per storey (more, if you have more cats), and see that they’re all cleaned regularly. For a really detailed look at how to deal with your cat’s behavior problems, take a look at Complete Cat Training. It’s a cutting-edge cat training manual that’s focused on training your cat and changing her behavior for the better. For professional tips on transforming your cat’s behavior problems (as well as teaching her some pretty neat tricks, from sit and stay to roll over, play dead, and fetch!) Complete Cat Training comes very highly recommended. You can visit the Complete Cat Training website by clicking on the link below: http://www.kingdomofpets.com/completecattraining/

7. Product review

Use the following product review to inform people about Complete Cat Training and what they will stand to gain from purchasing it.

NOTE: Product reviews should be reworded to ensure they are not seen as duplicate content. Product reviews can only be used to promote Kingdom of Pets’ products.

Complete Cat Training Guide It’s funny how many dog-training guides there are available. All the information you could ever want on how to teach your dog tricks; how to communicate with your dog; how to understand what your dog’s thinking; how to prevent behavioral problems. Why aren’t there more books on how to do all this for cats? After all, cats are just as popular as dogs (if not more so); and, arguably, they’re just as intelligent and just as capable of being trained. I never even thought about training my cat to do tricks and obedience work. He’s spent his life thus far as a happy free-loader, accepting food and cuddles from me in exchange for …. well, not that much, actually. Until, that is, I dropped round to visit a new acquaintance recently, where I watched, stunned (and, I’ll admit, more than a little envious) as she got her cat perform what seemed to me to be an entire circus’ worth of acrobatics: rolling over, playing dead, shaking hands, even playing fetch. “Right,” I thought to myself, “That’s it! If her cat can do it, then mine can, too!” … and thus my search for the Holy Grail of cat-training handbooks began in earnest. I hunted here, I hunted there – I just about turned the library inside out. I looked through newspapers for advertised cat trainers, I asked my friends, I made phone calls to vet clinics and even dog-training organizations (just in case!) The two things I didn’t do – but should have – were place a phone-call to that new acquaintance (I’m afraid my pride got in my way: I fostered fond dreams of casually unveiling my cat’s mastery of a stunning array of tricks and obedience work the next time she dropped around); and I didn’t even think of looking online until my husband (who, as chance would have it, works in internet marketing) castigated me gently for not “Googling” the subject straight away. So I hopped onto the computer, and within five minutes I’d found what I was looking for in the Complete Cat Training Guide; and it was clear to me within just a few pages that the author, Paula Robb, is a woman who really knows what she’s talking about … So What’s Included? Let me get one thing straight: although this is a book that will teach you (among other commands) how to get your cat to beg, jump, twirl, stay, sit, come, open cupboards, kiss, play dead, and retrieve, that’s by no means all that you’ll learn. Something I found incredibly useful was the book’s total-coverage philosophy: pretty much all aspects of cat ownership have been covered, in real detail. Example: as well as cat training, you also get information on how to fix virtually any cat problem (this is no baseless claim - over twenty-five cat behavioral problems are covered, from urine-marking to nocturnal disturbances to aggression); you get a real-life case study for each problem (which is a real help when it comes to putting the information into context); you learn about your cat’s body language and vocals, and how to use that knowledge to understand what he’s thinking and how to communicate with him; plus chapters and chapters of general knowledge on things like choosing the right cat for you; understanding feline behaviors both “good” and “bad”; how to help your cat adapt to your lifestyle and home; how to toilet-train your cat; and two whole sections on cat health and nutrition, all of which goes a long way towards deepening and strengthing your relationship with your cat. Other Benefits I sometimes find it hard to understand written instructions. It can be kind of confusing, especially when you’re also trying to control a wriggling, energetic cat. That’s why the clear step-by-step photographs and illustrations came in so handy with the training strategies: I actually understood exactly how to position myself and make the most of my body language during the training. It made the whole process a lot easier - and a whole lot faster! Something else I liked: the book was instantly downloadable. This is a pretty big deal to me; I don’t like paying for something, then waiting days (usually weeks) for it to be shipped overseas, processed through the post, and then – likely as not – delivered to the wrong address. What I do like is instant gratification, which is exactly what I got with Complete Cat Training: seconds after paying my money, the book was downloaded onto my computer and I was gleefully reading through it. The Best Bits I don’t really understand how this woman can be making any money off her product, because she seems to be giving away a lot of stuff for free (but hey, I’m not complaining!) Here are just a few of the handy little freebies that I got with my book: - Two free bonus books: “The Essential Cat Recipe Book”, which shows you how to prepare tasty, healthy meals and treats for your beloved kitty; and “The Ultimate Guide to Pampering Your Cat”, which shows you how to develop a real bond of affection with your cat through improving his quality of life. - A free, private email consultation (worth $120) with a team of real live cat trainers. Any problems that you have, any queries whatsoever, and all you have to do is send an email – you’ll get a detailed, personal reply from a team of seasoned cat trainers, to make sure any problems are truly resolved to your satisfaction. Not bad. In a Nutshell Two words: highly recommended. You really can’t go wrong here; not only is the whole thing jam-packed with practical advice and hands-on tips, but the price is extremely reasonable: just $37 for the book, the consultation, and the bonus books … oh yeah, and there’s a no-questions-asked money-back guarantee for 60 whole days after making the purchase. All in all, I have no qualms whatsoever about recommending this book to anyone who’s got, or is thinking about getting, a cat: whether it’s training, behavioral problems, trouble-shooting, or improving your relationship with your beloved kitty, I guarantee you’ll learn something useful.