Welcome To My Newsletter Series. In this newsletter letter series I will provide you with information about keeping tropical fish. The information contained in the newsletter comes from my passed experiences while working with fish, conversations I've had with friends and other tropical fish lovers, as well as knowledge I gain while researching material to write the book. So as you can see that the content comes from a number of sources, which I think make for a well rounded newsletter series.
Please feel free to forward this newsletter on to your friends who maybe interested in tropical fish keeping as well.
LIGHTING IN A MARINE AQUARIUM
Today, we see a growing number of people keeping marine fish. Although there are a number of things required in providing these fish with a healthy and happy environment, one of the most important is lighting. Typically, lighting is broken down into two categories, which include a fish-only tank and a reef tank. Any type of lighting that works for a reef aquarium would also be suitable for a fish-only aquarium. However, it is important to choose the right type of lighting.
When you look at a fish-only aquarium, you have a basic setup to include the tank, the filtration system, and the lighting. Most often, you would find a pre-manufactured hood made of plastic that includes a single or double fluorescent light. These hoods are easy to install and even easier to maintain. Generally, you place the lighted hood on the tank, turn it on, and you are al set. These hoods are typically designed for freshwater fish more than marine life.
Most often, new fish keepers will purchase a light hood from the local pet store or pet supply store, which consists of a one-piece unit with the light fixture already installed. The advantage to these lights is that they require no special skill and when the fluorescent bulb burns out, it is simply replaced with a new one. Keep in mind that fluorescent lighting provides varying degrees of color for the fish. These stock tubes will usually put out anywhere from 15 to 40 watts.
Now, if you plan to keep a larger aquarium, the Normal Output (NO) fluorescent bulbs should be considered, which are reliable, have a color temperature of 5,500K, and usually last about 20,000 hours. In addition, the NO fluorescent bulb typically includes a two-year warranty, making this an easy choice. Best of all, the NO bulb is affordable so when it needs to be replaced, it will not cost a small fortune. While this type of lighting system works well for freshwater tanks, it is not necessarily the best option for a marine fish aquarium.
If you think you want to start out with a freshwater tank but possibly switch over to a marine tank eventually, we recommend you choose a lighting system that uses two tubes. With this option, you could replace one of the bulbs with an actinic or higher Kelvin NO tube that produces 10,000K. This would mean you could accommodate some reef life. However, this would not be enough for a true reef aquarium, just soft coral. On the other hand, if you were ready to try your hand at a true marine tank, you need to consider different type lighting.
This type of lighting system is generally more complex and for some, intimidating. First, you could choose a fluorescent light that is a Normal Output, one that is High Output, one with Very High Output, or a Power Compact also known as Osram. The other option would be a metal halide light, which does not have differentiating qualities except for wattage and special output, and certain types such as Iodines and Sodiums are not suitable for hobbyist.
For a marine aquarium, we suggest you spend a little more time and money on a good lighting system. The goal is to choose the right type of light from the very beginning. The three aspects of fluorescent lighting that you would consider include the wattage, the Color Rendition Index or CRI, and the Kelvin or K. The choice you make for your marine aquarium will depend on the type of setup. The following are some guidelines:
Another consideration for lighting is the color temperature. Keep in mind that water absorbs long wavelength light, which would be red, yellow, and orange at shallow depths more so than short wavelengths, which are violet, blue, and green. Sunlight hitting the water’s surface would have a color temperature of 6,500K in the wild. As mentioned above, a freshwater tank may have 5,500K while a marine tank would need up to 10,000K.
You need to remember that the depth of the tank plays an important role in the type of lighting you choose. For instance, if you have marine life that lives on the bottom, you need a more powerful light source. Because there are so many variances, depending on the depth of the tank, the overall size, and most importantly, the type of marine fish kept, you should talk to your local expert to determine the exact lighting required. Knowledge about the type and amount of intensity is crucial to the decision.
I hope you enjoyed this article and look forward to the next article which looks at specialist and oddball speices.
Until next time...
Katy
www.kingdomofpets.com/tropicalfish
If you are really serious about learning more about keeping tropical fish, Click Here to order my Book and DVD set. Let me guide you through it all!
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